With an area extending approximately 985 feet (300 meters) in the north-south direction, Rötteln Castle is Baden's largest castle ruins and a testimonial to the eventful history of this region.
It is not known exactly when the narrow mountain peak overlooking the Wiesen valley was inhabited, but it was probably not until the high Middle Ages. In any case, the dynasty of Rötteln can be traced back to the year 1100. The oldest preserved parts of their castle probably originate from the late 12th and the 13th century. This means they belong to the age of the Stauffers. In the 13th century the Röttelers were a powerful and important noble family in the area around Lörrach. They strove for higher office, and the bishop's title in Basel and Konstanz are evidence of this.
It is still easy to experience the dimensions of the castle built by the barons of Rötteln today. This mainly comprises the area of the Upper Castle (Oberburg). Well-protected to three sides by the surrounding topography, a mighty curtain wall was erected toward the north. In the interior the square Keep (Bergfried) rises up as the most important structure. It consists of sandstone blocks carefully carved into rusticated ashlars, which were placed on top of each other without mortar, and is characteristic of the technical execution of castles on the Upper Rhine. Additional buildings were erected along the surrounding wall next to the Keep, including the "Palas", the multi-story main building of the castle, which still towers up today.
In the late 13th century the von Rötteln family developed financial difficulties and lost power. In addition, the male line died out with Luithold II in 1316. As his niece Agnes had already married Rudolf I of Hachberg-Sausenberg in 1298, the castle came into the possession of the lords of Hachberg-Sausenberg, a side line of the margraves of Baden. They subsequently moved their family seat to Rötteln and with their dynasty a new and glorious age began for the castle. At first their dominion in south Baden was more like a patchwork quilt, however additional holdings were added through a clever marriage policy. By the mid-15th century the area known as the "Markgräflerland" today formed a more or less contiguous territory.
Rötteln Castle was mainly given the size it has today under the Margraves of Hachberg-Sausenberg. The invention of gunpowder and the development of firearms made additional defense systems necessary. A double ring of walls with an outer courtyard located between them was erected to protect against the penetrating force of cannons. To create space for the castle's own artillery, semicircular towers with corresponding embrasures were built. The Upper Castle (Oberburg) and the area of the Lower Castle (Unterburg) were included in these new fortification measures.
Due to extremely heavy debts, Margrave Wilhelm of Hachberg-Sausenberg was forced to relinquish rule to his sons, who had not yet come of age, in 1441. Their uncle, Count Johann of Freiburg-Neuenburg, became their guardian and regent, which is why the residence was moved to Neuenburg (Neuchâtel, Switzerland). A new era began for Rötteln Castle and it became the administrative center with governors as rulers. When Margrave Philipp died in 1503 without heirs, the "Markgräflerland" went to the main family line of Baden. They also did not live in the castle themselves, but instead left it to the governors. The complex, and especially the area before the castle (Vorburg), was expanded as an administrative seat in accordance with its function. A number of buildings were erected along the eastern and western wall, the most important of which was the State Clerk's Office (Landschreiberei). In the early 17th century the gate of the area in front of the castle was again secured toward the south by building a generous bastion. This then gave Rötteln Castle its ultimate form.
The castle was heavily damaged in the chaos of the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648). And thirty years later it was once again subjected to siege and devastation by the French army. The last stage of the destruction also took place at the hands of French troops during the Palatinate War of Succession (1688-1697). In the decades that followed, the inhabitants of the surrounding villages used the abandoned castle as a quarry, as of course it supplied excellently carved stone blocks.
With the rediscovery of the values of medieval culture in the Romantic age, painters and sketchers visited the decaying ruins. Soon afterward the first preservation measures were taken.
Beginning in 1884 the Black Forest Association (Schwarzwaldverein) took initial steps for monument preservation and paved the way for tourism at the castle. In 1926 the "Röttelnbund e. V." association was founded, which still sees to the preservation and care of the former fortress today. Since 1968 the Castle Festival (Burgfestspiele) has taken place every year. It combines European drama with a breathtaking backdrop. A museum in the former State Clerk's Office provides vivid insights into the castle's history.